The Breitling Damenuhr 1958, while not a formally designated model name by Breitling itself, refers to a specific evolution of the brand's Chronomat line, specifically the reference 808, which saw significant design updates around 1958. This article will explore this pivotal moment in Breitling's history, examining the key design changes introduced in the ref. 808, its place within the broader context of vintage Breitling watches from the 1950s, and the importance of understanding Breitling watch serial numbers in authenticating these coveted timepieces.
The Chronomat, introduced in 1942, quickly established itself as a robust and reliable chronograph favored by pilots and professionals. However, the late 1950s witnessed a subtle yet significant shift in the design language of the Chronomat, culminating in the reference 808 – a watch that bridges the gap between the earlier, more angular designs and the more refined aesthetics that would characterize later Breitling models. The changes implemented in the ref. 808, while seemingly minor at first glance, speak volumes about Breitling's commitment to continuous improvement and adaptation to evolving tastes.
One of the most striking updates in the ref. 808 was the transition from rectangular pushers to round pump pushers. The earlier rectangular pushers, while functional, possessed a somewhat utilitarian and angular aesthetic. The shift to round pump pushers, however, introduced a touch of elegance and sophistication. This seemingly small alteration significantly enhanced the overall visual balance of the watch, softening its lines and giving it a more refined profile. The rounded pushers also likely improved the tactile experience, making the chronograph functions more intuitive and comfortable to use.
Beyond the pushers, the ref. 808 also featured a change in the hands. The previous "needle" hands, characterized by their thin, pointed design, were replaced with broader baton hands. This change not only contributed to improved legibility, making it easier to read the time at a glance, but also reinforced the more refined aesthetic established by the round pushers. The baton hands, with their clean and uncluttered design, perfectly complemented the overall design philosophy of the updated Chronomat.
Further contributing to the enhanced aesthetic was an increase in the size of the crown. While the exact dimensions varied slightly depending on specific variations within the ref. 808, the crown was generally larger and more prominent than its predecessors. This change not only improved the ease of winding and setting the time but also provided a more substantial and tactile feel. The larger crown also played a role in the overall visual balance of the watch, adding a touch of weight and presence to the piece.
Finally, the hour markers also underwent a subtle but noticeable update. While the exact nature of the change varied slightly across different ref. 808 examples, many featured a refinement in the style and possibly the material of the hour markers, contributing to a more polished and refined overall appearance. These minor adjustments, when taken together, resulted in a watch that was not only more functional but also significantly more aesthetically pleasing.
The Breitling Damenuhr 1958, represented by the ref. 808, stands as a testament to Breitling's ability to evolve its designs while retaining the core values of robustness and functionality that defined the brand. It represents a crucial transitional phase in Breitling's history, bridging the gap between earlier, more utilitarian designs and the more refined aesthetics of later models. Understanding these subtle design changes is essential for appreciating the nuances of vintage Breitling watches.
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